I'm back

So now I kind of want to move to London, in fact I'm a little depressed to be back.  The trip was just fantastic.  Mark and I had an unbelievable time and ate a ton a fantastic food (I gained 4 pounds).  I took hundreds of pictures and kept a diary of everything I ate.  Take note.  I apologize in advance for the length of this post.

LONDON
We arrived on Thursday, October 5.  Mark friend Rick was gracious enough to let us stay at his fashionable flat in Belsize Park, which is located in North London.  As soon as we got to our temporary home, it began to rain.  So we headed to the nearest pub for a pint and some pub grub.  I had steak and ale pie with mushy peas and new potatoes.

The next morning, Mark and I desided to explore the neighborhood a bit.  At a very cute little place called Chamomile Cafe right down the street from where we were staying, I had a very clever breakfast which they referred to as Eggs in Ramekins.  What it was, was a small dish of ratatoullie topped with a poached egg and served with thick buttered toast. 

For lunch we popped into Pret for a salt beef and horseradish sandwich.  Later, wandering through fashionable Covent Garden, we stopped for a snack at a beautiful little takeaway shop called Kastner and Ovens.  I had a buttery raspberry slice and Mark had a flapjack (which is not a pancake.  Rather, it's kind of like a granola bar).  For dinner, we met up with Marks friends Rob and Blake and went out for Greek food at a rastaurant called Lemonia, located in Primrose Hill.

The next morning we headed over to the Victoria and Albert museum to see the 60's fashion exhibit. At the museum cafe I had a decadent slice of apple and balckberry cheesecake.  Dinner was Thai food in Soho.

Sunday morning, Rob picked us up and we went for a walk in the beautiful Hampstead Heath. 

Rob recommended that we have lunch at Kenwood House.  I had a free-range pork sausage with red cabbage and pear, beet and ginger chutney.  Mark was so kind to let me taste his spiced lentil and tomato soup.  For dessert we shared a chocolate and hazlenut pavlova and a scone with jam and clotted cream. 

It's all about pavlovas.  Pavlovas might be my new favorite dessert.  Plus it's fun to say.  Pavlova.  For dinner we checked out another of Rob's recommendations, a notorious nearby pub called the Magdala.  We started with an amazing basket of warm ciabatta which we dipped in a flavorful olive oil which was infused with garlic, thyme and chile.  For my main course I had roast lamb with mint pesto, steamed vegetables and roasted potatoes.

The next day was particularly exciting.  We went to Jamie Oliver's restaurant, Fifteen, for lunch. 

Again, more fantastic ciabatta.  Ciabatta seems to be quite popular in London.  And with good reason.

For my meal, I had papardelle with salami and fennel in a spicy tomato sauce topped with parmigiano and Fontodi olive oil.  For dessert, Mark and I split a rich, fudgy chocolate brownie with a crackly top.  Dinner that night was dim sum in Soho at a beautiful, modern restaurant called Ping Pong.

MANCHESTER
The next morning, Mark and I headed north to Manchester to visit our friend Linda.  Upon our arrival, Linda took us over to Canal Street, the hub of the gay section of town and the setting of the UK version of Queer as Folk.   I had a fantastic bacon, brie, and cranberry sandwich on cibatta, with a side of chips.  That night, Linda gathered a group of friends and we all went out for Indian.  God how I love curry.

The next day for lunch we went to a very old pub called Mr. Thomas' Chop House. 

Mark and I split bubble and squeak soup sprinkled with Cheshire bacon, buttered toast topped with wild mushrooms sauteed with shallots, garlic and sage, and a fried, free-range duck egg. 

Perhaps the least favorite of anything I ate on the trip was the lamb's liver, pork belly and bacon terrine with a beetroot, mint and creme fraiche dressing, pickled blueberries and toasted brioche.  At one of the vendors at the Manchester Food and Drink festival we picked up some fudge:  whiskey and walnut fudge and maple pecan.  For dinner that night back at Linda's we snacked on an assortment of cheeses (Stilton, Smoked Lancashire, Camembert, Goats Cheese from Somerstet and a very interesting Wesleydale with cranberries), ciabatta, crackers, bruschetta and olives.

The next morning before we headed back to London, I had a toasted crumpet slathered with French butter and drizzled with honey.

LONDON
Once we got back to London, Mark and I headed over to Camden and for lunch popped into a little food stall speciallizing in Moroccan food.  I had a lamb wrap.  That evening, after a glass of prosecco and some cheese in Rick's lush, rooftop garnden, our gracious host Rick, and a group of friends went to a charming little pub, neslted away up a crooked little cobbled pathway, called the Holly Bush.  I had duck and cherry sausage with cheddar mash, red onion and Scotch marmalade and gravy.  For dessert we all shared a chocolate, blood orange and malt whiskey fondant.

PARIS
Early the next morning we met up with Mark's old friends Rob and Barry and we took the Eurostar to Paris.  (I've been told that it's only American's who refer to the train as the "Chunnel."  Everyone else calls it the Eurostar.)

After we checked into our hotel located right in the Latin quarter, a ten mintue walk from the Jardin des Plantes, we headed to a nearby bistro and all had croque monseiur with frites.  For dinner we met up with a French friend who lives in LA but happened to be in town, at a gorgeous old brasserie called Brasserie Lipp.  Mirrors and Art Nouveau tiles everywhere. 

I had succulent pork with lentils and frites.  Yes more frites.  The food was basic, yet beautiful, served family style.

The next morning after a croissant and baguette smeared with butter and jam at the hotel, we went sight seeing.

Luchtime found us at the Musee d'Orsay, where I had the most amazing tart tatine of ham, mushrooms and either gruere or emetaller. 

For dinner, we met up with some old friends of Rob and Barry's at a restaurant called Ambassade Auvergne.  I had a fantastic creamy chestnut soup with bacon, a pear tart with blue cheese and salad. 

The main course was partridge with figs and pears.  Dessert was a plate of six different kinds of cheeses.

The next morning after another croissant and baguette, Mark and I took a stroll through the Luxembourg Gardens on our way to a famers' market I had read about in Ina Garten's cookbook Barefoot in Paris.  For lunch we went to a great little bistro where we had the most amazing cafe au lait.  To eat I had a country ham and Emmetal baguette, and frites dipped in mayonnaise. 

Our bellies full, we took a walk along the Seine.

Soon we were in the mood for something sweet.  A Nutella crepe was the solution.  We then headed over to check out the Jardin Des Plantes.

As our lazy Sunday streched into evening we were pretty worn out so we went to go see a movie - Perfume.  I highly recommend it.  For our last dinner in Paris we went on search for mussels.  To go with it, I had beef Bourguignon and a creme brulee for dessert.

LONDON
Back in London we headed down to Chamomile Cafe again.  Mark and I shared an organic Godminster cheese, leek and celery root tart and a brie, apple and walnut baguette. 

We then took a walk in nearby Regent's Park where we happened across a little cafe with the delightful name of The Honest Sausage.  They were offering something called the Park Porker.  I couldn't resist. 

The Park Porker consisted of a pork, ginger and sping onion sausage in an organic roll with onion relish and grainy mustard.  For dinner that night we met up again with Blake and had dinner in Soho at Pizza Express.  Although the name suggests something along the lines of Pizza Hut, it's actually a bit more sophisticated.  I had pizza topped with spicy beef, pepperoni, onions, Tabasco, hot green peppers and jalepenos.

The next morning we shared an apricot danish and a custard donut that was only slightly smaller than a canteloupe at Patisserie Valerie in Soho before heading off to the London Eye. 

Afterward, we shared some spiced cauliflower and potato soup and a spicy Indian vegetable pie at Eat. 

If there was an Eat in LA, I'd finally be happy.  At the coffee bar at the Tate Modern, we shared a champagne strawberry triffle.  For dinner we met up with yet more of Mark's friends in East London and went out for some fantastic Vietnamese food.

For our last day in the UK, we decided to check out the food hall at Harrods. 

At the bakery I picked up a cheese and bacon baguette.  I've eaten more bacon on this trip than in the last six months.  Then for lunch we met up with our gracious host again, for lunch at a pub called the Crown and Goose. 

I had Moroccan lamb stew with almonds, couscous and yogurt. 

For dinner that night, we had our first home cooked meal in two weeks when we headed out to Crouch End where Rob and Barry live.  Rob whiped up his signature chicken curry served with naan, papadams, and an assortment of chutney, yogurt, lime pickle, etc.

The last morning in London, we went back to the reliable and convenient Chamomile Cafe and again I had the eggs in ramekins.  And then it was off to the airport.  Sniffle.  As much as I loved the trip I am kind of excited to get back into my own kitchen.  Fear not.  The cooking with resume shortly.

Comments

[jennie]

Amazing! Lovely pictures and narrative of your trip. Makes me want to go to London NOW.

I think the thing that made my mouth water the most was the Park Porker!!

[edwina]

makes me very homesick - beautiful pictures and a lovely food travelogue!

[marissa]

you hit a couple of my favorites - I love the holly bush. doesn't look trendy but apparently its really good for british celeb sightings. and I used to go to valerie's all the time in soho. when I was back in london in jan I noticed you can now order a chai with soy milk. my first thought: wow, I can finally move back here. glad you had fun. I'm jealous.

[tina]

I think I gained 4 pounds just reading this post!

Great pics and post! Looks like you definitely had a wonderful time there.

[New Jan Brady]

You do such a lovely job of making us feel like we were there, thank you for sharing.

I about had to go lay down after looking at that dreamy cheese plate.

[Lydia]

Lovely post, mouthwatering photos. London has come such a long way in the food world since our first visit there more than 30 years ago!

[Megan]

Beautiful! Thanks so much for sharing the pictures.

[gemma]

Looks like you didn't make it to the Salt Yard which is a shame because it is AMAZING. At least now you have a reason to go back.

[Belsize Park Takeaway London]

Lovely Pics, I love foods too but never thought to post like this, really nice.
I live near Belsize Park Takeaway London, so next time u come in here, i will be more than happy to share some really awesome foods here.

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